Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Surfing on Christmas Eve

Chrismas eve. I got to the beach around 1:30 pm. Passed by the entrance and said Merry Christmas to the park employee, a nice older gentleman sitting by himself inside the boot. He waved back at me with a smile. I drove down the beach and there was almost nobody. Yeah, they all must be at the mall doing the last minutes Christmas shopping. There was just one lonely guy out there at the point,trying to catch a sloppy one footer. Surf is tiny today, if any. But I am here, so I went ahead and put on my wetsuit. The poor guy came in. We chat a bit. He said it was better an hour earlier but he think the swell is dying down now. I agreed with him. It looks so flat out there. Well, swimming is a good exercise too. He told me I have the whole Sano for myself. Wahoo! except for there is no waves! Walking down the beach, I dipped my foot in the water. Man,it is icy cold, may be in the fifty-ish degree. The sky is overcast with only a tiny speck of sunlight. The air is as cold as the water. Perfect! Time to get in.

It is sure small today. I struggled to catch a few tiny waves. Got one, stood up, rode a bit but not much going on at the Point so I paddled out to Old Mans. Waves are breaking over there, not by much. I caught a few one, two footers. It's kinda of broken, crumpy, bumby waves that most people would call junks. Well, one of the surfer I met later today told me: "You ride the waves you got, not the one you wished you had" so got to make the best of what out there. Strange thing, even there is not much swell today but where I lined up, there is a strong rip curl kept pulling me out to the ocean. It's kind of freaky. After a few minutes sitting on your surfboard, you ended up farther from the shore. I had to keep paddle back closer to the shore, thinking, if this stupid thing drifted me out to the ocean, there is nobody around I can ask for help.

I got a few more waves, got one last decent one and called it the day. I was getting a bit cold too. Walking back to my car, taking off my wet suit and at the same time I heard the Surfliner train horn going in the background. So I was thinking, the last train of the day, taking people back to their family, to a happy Christmas dinners with love ones. Merry Christmas to everyone. Merry Christmas San Onofre.

Monday, December 15, 2008

The moment

Ever wonder why surfers are so mellow? Yes, my friends, when you are out there, on the waves, you forgot all about this f. bullshit. Yes, it's all gone. Just you and the waves, the very moment that you stood up, the moment that you shred. That's it. That's all that's matter. All your body is living the moment. Yes.....

Lord of the Rings

I just watch Lord of the Ring again. Every time I watched it, I can see the relationship between the Ring and the greed that fell on the human race. Yes, the ring is the greediness, the ego, the power, the want-it-all human nature. Yes, one ring conquers it all. We has human beings struggle to free ourselves from greediness but we are not always successful. Why, is it because you never when your next meal will come from? Is it because you never know when on rainy days, do you have enough to survive? Why we always want more? More money, more recognition, bigger house, bigger cars. What is it? What is it that make us human to be greedy, has to be so egolistic? If we can conquer fusion energy, then energy will be limitless then we can produce as much food as we want, all the big houses that we want to own, all the nice cars that we drive. All problems will be solved, right? Yeah, until someone control your source of fusion energy, and you will have to pay for it. And it's all start all over again.....

Tuesday, December 2, 2008

My favorite surfers

Kelly Slater, Rob Machado

Saturday, October 11, 2008

Jack Johnson's music

My friend introduced me to Jack Johnson's music and I like it. He is a surfer and a musician from the North Shore, Oahu, Hawaii. His music has a mellow, nice, flowing touch like that of a surfing waves. Here are a couple of his music video on YouTube. Enjoy:

Sitting, Waiting, Wishing (love this one):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0u-0X8sPe0&feature=related

Upside down with the cute monkey:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uFjnit1wyus&feature=related

This one is with Ben Stiller, funny:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KefLz4DDrjo&feature=related

Jack Johnson's music video tribute to Kelly Slater, the greatest pro surfer of all time:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TW6cREqSdy4

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Waikiki, Ala Moana

The world famous Waikiki beach. This stretch of white sand beach probably one of the most expensive beach front property in the world.


The crowd and tourists


Surfers on waves at Waikiki beach


Surfboard row.


Waikiki skyline seen from the water

This world re-known beach is where the Duke Kahanamoku surfed back in the 1900's. We stopped to visit the famous beach a couple times.

Me and the Duke.


Diamond head, as seen from Ala Moana beach


Got one. Ala Moana beach. Ala Moana beach is a local beach, right next to Waikiki. While Waikiki is where tourists go to, Ala Moana is mostly visit by local people.


Happy!

Friday, August 22, 2008

Waimea Jumping Rock


Waimea beach is a beautiful place in the North Shore, with sandy beach, tall white clock tower and giant waves in the winter. It is where big wave surfers go to surf 25, 30 ft huge waves. But in the summer, it is usually flat but it is great for swimming, snorkeling, sun tanning and rock jumping. This is the famous jumping rock in the North Shore. Jumping off this rock is like jumping off the roof of your house. I took this picture of the rock, noticed a guy just jumped off the rock in the background. My daughter and I both jumped off this rock but she actually jumped three times and I jumped only one. When you are up there and looking down, it is very scary, your heart beats a little faster. But once you commit, there is no going back. The good thing is it is over so quick, you don't even have time to scare. Fun and exciting.





In the winter months, the waves are huge. Just give you an idea how big the waves really are, look at this video at the surfboard shack web site. At the end of the video, you will see the big wave covered the jumping rock and the rock is at least 20 feet tall.

http://www.surfboardshack.com/waimea.html
Courtesy of surfboardshack.com

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Makaha Farmer Market


On the Saturday we were on the island, Makaha Resorts and Hotel held their first summer Farmer Market on their parking lot and it was fun. There were lot of local fruits, cooked meal, fresh sea fish, cakes, cookies and flower. The people were very nice and friendly. A farming co-op gave out a bunch of bento lunch boxes and I got some for us. A flower shop gave away their flowers to us before they leave and we ended up gave most of them away to another lady because we have no room in our car.


Orchids, just slightly out of focus




Local dishes






This is one of the farm co-op where they teach homeless people how to cook and sell stuff. We got a couple free bento lunch box from these nice people




Super sweet Sachocia fruit. I have not seen this fruit for 30 yrs since I left Vietnam




Mellow Hawaiian Sweet Sounds




Fresh raw fish from the ocean



Oh, here are a sample of some local tropical fruits near Makaha and on the island:



Tuesday, August 12, 2008

Hawaii Day 2

Second day on the island. We are heading to Hanauma bay for some snorkeling fun but first we need fuel for our stomaches. We stopped by at Waikiki to find some to eat. After got lost and my wife drove on the wrong side of the road once, we found a little Korean restaurant next to a QuickSilver surf shop. It was a fun little interesting Korean place. The lunch specials were pretty good. I had Korean barbecue ribs. We talked to the young Korean waitress and she actually came from Corona, CA. She got tired of big city life so moved to Hawaii to get away from it all. She showed my wife how to eat a special rice dish by mixing a red spicy tofu paste with the rice and it was delicious.

Now with a full stomach, we headed out to Hanauma bay, only found we missed the freeway entrance. Actually it was a good thing because we had to drive on city street and found the Time Asian/Japanese supermarket (http://www.timessupermarket.com/).



Let me tell you, if you are an Asian like me, when in Hawaii, go to Time supermarkets. They have 12 locations in Hawaii and you can buy a lot of different Bento boxes for lunch. They are delicious and priced very reasonable. Eat like the locals and save a ton of cash. We loaded up with food, chips, drinks and ready to get on the road again.

Hanauma bay is so beautiful. We been here before, several years ago but things changed. First of all, there is now a paid parking lot that wasn't there before (or at least we did not have to pay). The most interesting thing about this parking lot is it has a lot of lamp posts and all of them has both a little windmill and a solar cell panel on top. It is always windy and sunny here so I thought that was a great green idea. We had to attend a 10 minute bay orientation, what to touch and what not, before we can head down to the bay. Actually I think it was a great idea too because so many people from all over the world came here to see this beautiful place and if they don't try to education and conserve it, it won't be around for too long.

Here are a few pictures that we took at the bay:


People snorkeling. There are lot of bright colorful tropical fish, blue, red, purple, yellow. Ah, I remember, I saw a couple convict fish. Guess why they call them that?


Just a sample of Hawaii fish. Disclaimer: not mine, this particular pix is from the web, public domain.



In this picture, you can see the coral reef where all the colorful fish lives


View from the top


Me and my beautiful lady

It has been good...

Just real qwik, the waves have been good this week at Sano, 2-4 ft height, not too big, just the right size. A-frame, rolling. Many good surfers came out and play so it was fun to watch them. Wish I could surf like that. Some day. Great summer days, warm water, great swells, lot of fun. See ya out there.

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Hawaii Day 1: Makaha

My family and I took a vacation in Hawaii at the end of June and we had a great time. The vacation was much needed and it left us with many memorable moments and memories.

We left the main land on June 19, flew out to Honolunu on Delta Airlines. The most interesting fact about the flight is they just installed an in-flight entertainment system. Every chair has a flat screen, installed on back of the head rest of the chair in front of you. You can watch news, TV, pay-per-view movies, sports or play games on demand. You supposed to pay for this service but unfortunate for them but lucky for us, the system was down and they had to reboot it a couple times. I think after while they gave up trying to fix it and let us watch everything for free. There were about 30 movies over all. Some just been released shortly in the theaters so we took full advantages of it. My kids watched Jumpers, Hana the young pop singers. My wife watched some chick flicks. I watched the Discovery channel. For the TV channels, it works until the airplane flew out of the LA metropolitan area and we lost all signals. This help us passed the boring long flight. We eat, watch TV, nap nap, go to the restroom, and come back redo the whole routine over for 5 hours.

Finally we landed around 10 pm at night. By the time we got the rental cars, drove to our hotel, Makaha Resort and Golf Club, which is quite far from the air port, and checked in, I think it was already passed midnight.

It was so dark at night so we had no idea how our hotel look like, until we woke up in the morning and the scenery was gorgeous. Take a looks at a couple pictures of Makaha Resort. The green mountain is the hotel's background.






This pictures was taken from the balcony of my room. I like it a lot because it look a lot like a postcard picture:




To be continued...

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

A Fun August TuesSummerDay


I know I have not been blogging for a while, been so busy, buddy. Well, I guess today I will write some thing. The weather has been extremely nice and comfort. The June gloom is finally over. Daily temperature is about 70s around the beach with clear blue sky, perfect weather for surfing, so that what I did today. Got to Sano around 7 pm. Lot of cars, lot of people for a Tuesday weekday. Don't people work at all? May be I am the only one that have to do so. Anyway, it's just so beautiful out here. yehh.

Out there on the waves you see black dots cover from one end of the beach to the other. Yes, that are surfers, waiting patiently for their perfect waves. On the sand, family and friends circled around the fire rings, kids playing. Lots of tents popped up along the beach, giving it many shades of blues, green, yellow, purples. So many RVs parked paralleled to the road, cars parked double, so crowded for a Tuesday afternoon... Yes, it looks just like a weekend Saturday. Amazing how summer transformed San Onofre beach. I love this place. Hope they don't build that stupid toll road. I need to write to my local congressman, Arnold and Bush...

I put on my spring suit, grabbed my board and jumped into the water. Wow, the water was so warmed, it was just like taking a bath. 70 degree, nice and toasty. The waves are also quite good today. 3, 4 feet tall, kinda soft but that's alright with me, I won't get beat up so bad. I paddled out, it was low tide so had to walked over a bunch of slippery pebbles. Almost lost my balance. Well, I got out to the line up and just wait for my waves. Had to wait for a few minutes but today we had quite a few fun sets, when they came. And when they came, they came in a set of 3 or 4, rolling in in A frame waves, then spread across the whole front, right in front of Old Mans. The waves pitched up, built up to 4 or 5 feet A frames. The top starts to tip over, the white cap bearded its top. Lovely. I caught a few of these. Some I was way inside so I just caught the white water, but they all was fun. One of the best wave I caught was some where between the line up and the beach. I paddled, saw the wave picked my board up, it started to slide down the slope. I pushed up, wait a bit and popped up on my feet. Let my board slid to the bottom of the wave then I leaned to the right, sticking my butt out to steer to the right. Glide for a while, step on the nose to nose ride for a bit, then I steered left, walked up and down the board a bit, pumped it a few times to generate speed. Oh, that was one of the longest ride I had at Sano. Fantastic. So much fun. I was going to go back in but after I ride that wave, I was so stoked that I ended up paddled back out again to catch a few more.

For a while the water was so calm and flat like a lake. I was just sitting on my board, watching the sun going down on the right. The sunset at Sano is not as beautiful at at Sunset beach, Hawaii but it sure still very romantic and inspiring. The sun going down over the horizon, a few specks of orange cloud partly covered the glowing orange disk. The water reflection, the small waves rolling in rymth, the tall cliff hanging in the background. Sometime a flock of sea birds flew by or a family of dolphins jumped over the water, 40, 50 yards from where you are. You feel so good, feel so much part of nature.



At that point, everything crazy going on during the day is gone, just you and nature, just you and the elements. It makes it worth the drive, worth the paddling. No wonder people is crazy about surfing. It's no longer a sport, it no longer an exercise. It is a lifestyle to a lot of people here (just check out how many RVs here today). Some people swears it borders religions. Whatever it is, I know I was hooked, I was stoked and I enjoy every minute of it.

Rolling, peeling beautiful waves of summer 08.

Sano, August 5th, 2008.

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Happy Father Day

One of my best father day ever was last Sunday 6/15/08. I got to spend my father day surfing with my daughters and my friend Tom. My older daughter took a couple pictures and they came out very good. This one we are about to go into the water. With the sun in the back, the pictures have an interesting sihollette look.



We are ready...



While we sufing, my friend Tom was jamming with his little guitar. Go Rock Star.


Guitar Hero


And here is the video of my daughter catching a wave:





The waves on that day were very big and strong. There were even some overheads. It took a while for Tom and I to paddle out to the line up. I had to turtle dive threes time to duck the incoming waves or else get swept away. I got one good wave, rode it in and it took 15 minutes to get back out. I got another one, the wave was pushing so strong that I got stuck in the soup for a while. Once I stood up, there was a guy paddling just in front of me. I almost ran over him except that I veered to the right just in time to avoid the collision. In the same time he flipped his board over and went under the water. I did almost lost it right there but did not fall. I rode this wave all the way in and called it a day. Just too lazy to go battle the big waves again. My daughter captured all of it in the video below.






Monday, June 16, 2008

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday. Yes, a few days ago was my birthday and I took a day off from work to celebrate when I came to this world. I told my wife and kids that on my birthday, all I want is to spend the day at the beach. They were ok with that. My wife had to work and my kids were in school so I am here at San Onofre all by myself. You know what, it was great.

I started the day out by stopping at the local Starbuck and load myself up with two big cups of aromatic coffee. They smelled so good.



I went get my breakfast and then headed to the beach. I got to the beach around 8:30 am and it was still cloudy. Only a handful of people were surfing at the time, like this guy out there.



One woman was sitting on her beach chair, wrapped in a blanket, reading her book. I said hi and told her the sun will come out and it will get better. She said she will hold me to it. Ok, Mr. Sun, hear that?

I got a nice little blue tent to give me some shade and a place to rest later on. I pitched it up near by a bush and stashed my gears in it. Oh, I even brought out the thurster that I bought 2 years ago and could not ride it. Will see if I can do it this time.



Another view of my habitat...



But the best view is right here, inside the tent, looking out. Beach front property, million dollars view.



Want to see my front yard's landscaping?



And this is my neighbor house with its own fire ring. People do bring wood, stuff here to light up a fire at night.



I was now settled in so I took a walk around and talked to other surfers. A bunch of old timers were gathering around a nice classic surfboard with lot of autographs on it. They told me the board was brand new, never touched the water. It was hung in a restaurant for a long time. Many well known surfers came and signed it. Now the owner wanted to replace the restaurant's decorations so the board has to go. One guys in the group got it and today he was going to baptize it. Nice board with a history.

By the way, the fog burned off and Mr. Sun came out to play. It was gorgeous blue sky with no cloud. The air temperature was just around 75 degrees, just perfect. So I went around and snapped a few pictures.



The lifeguard tower. There was a lifeguard truck parked next to it so they actually staffed it during the weekday. I guess because it is summer time here in California.



The waves were kind of small, only around 1 or 2 feet tall, kind of weak and sectional. Once a while you get a good set but many times it just hurry up, paddled out and wait. This guys got one:



And this guy was shredding:



I went out, caught a few but the waves were just weak, barely able to ride. After a while, I got hungry so went back in to eat my lunch. My yummy little lunch was no filet mignon, nothing fancy. Just a breakfast sandwich from McDonald and a couple bananas. Simple and that's how I like it.



I took a short nap after lunch, and after that just kicked back, relax, watched the waves. I went back out a couple times, got a few more waves. I got to try my short thurster and finally stood up on it a few times so I was stoked. Yehhh...

Btw, I saw this smiling Asian guy just standing around so I took a picture of him. Funny looking guy... He said he was happy because that was his birthday!



Yes, that's how my birthday go. Nice, relax, easy and quiet. I wished the waves were a bit bigger but that's alright, I had fun. It was great having the day just by yourself, doing something that you enjoy. You should try this on your birthday and I am sure you will like it too. I love it.


Saturday, May 24, 2008

May 17

Went surfing at Sano again on May 17. It was crowded so we had to wait for almost an hour. The water was really nice and warm. I did not even have to wear my wetsuit. Wished the waves were a little bit bigger but I had some fun so it's alright. Here are couple pictures of me, riding a small one.







Monday, May 12, 2008

Foyld's silky pillow cases

Foyld is a nice old man. I met Foyld a few weeks ago, when I was at San' O, getting ready to surf. I saw this old guy, walking up the beach, carrying this huge long board with him. The board towered over him and he is not that small, maybe around 5'9" or 5'10". He looks like he is 65 years old, a bit balded but still have some hair left. Looked just like your good old grandpa, minus the big beer belly. I walked by and said hi. He gave me a happy surfer smile and we started talking. I found out his surfboard is 11 foot long. Mine is only 9 and I thought my board was a boat already. He said he used to surf on a 9 foot longboard. As he got older, he does not paddle as good anymore so he switched over to a 10 foot long and now he is a on his 11 foot baby. But still surfing.

He said he is from sunny beautiful San Diego. I asked when he started surfing and he said he started when he was 6 or 7 years old and he is now 68. That means he start surfing when it was 1940! Wow, even before the war. He said back then, people did not have surfboard like we all do now. So they would go to the beach, carry a bunch of long silk pillow cases. They hold the pillow cases opened, ran against the wind, try to trap as much air as they could, tied them up and tossed the air packed cases over the incoming waves. Then they all jumped into the water, each grabbed a pillow case, wrapped it around their chest and start riding the waves. Just like bogey boarding we do now. So they rode silky pillow cases on beach breaks, cool! Each incoming wave would pick them up and plunged them straight down into the sand. They would tumbling head down, rolled around in the water, got up, shake the sand out of their hair, their nose, their ears and proceed to get right back to ocean to catch another one!

We started talking about surfboards and glass and epoxy and carbon fiber..So he said, back then, they did not have that many choices. He said people surfed on long balsa wooden boards that weighted a ton. When his brothers came home from the war, a few years later foam boards came out and it was a big deal. They all got foam surfboards and that's when he started got seriously into surfing. And it has been a non stop journey. At that point, I was itching to get in the water so I said goodbye to Foyld. I walked away, headed down the beach. I turned my head around, there he was, standing, watching the people catching waves, smiling happy face. I looked at him again and thought to myself, man, what a nice man and a great surfing history. You know, I really hope that I will be healthy and able to surf like Foyld when I am 68. Long live surfing.

Sunday, May 11, 2008

Too much fun...

Do you feel like sometimes you just had too much fun and now you are paying for it. That's how I feel right now. I went surfing for 3 days in a row and my poor body is aching all over. I walked around like an old man, slumping my shoulders, every muscles is sored and can barely keep my eyes open. I guess I am paying for all the fun I had in the last 3 days. You see, I went surfing on Friday afternoon. And I went again yesterday and this morning, I went one more time. Crazy me, but I could not help it. I woke up this morning, my body was already tired. The sky is totally overcast. The air is cold, and it was misting a bit on my windshield. But I still picked up my wetsuit, my new board and head straight to San' O. There is an urge to hit the water, to catch the waves, to splash that cold water over my face, and TO CATCH THAT PERFECT WAVE. How can you describe it? Only a surfer knows the feeling.

It was a bit cold at first but after 5 minutes paddling, I could feel it no more. I guess I either got used to it or my hands just went numb :-) The first wave came when I hit the line up and I took off immediately. I am going to call my Walden stick the "first wave" board because you can catch and ride the first wave everytime. This puppy is so fast and so responsive, even though it is 9'6" long. I can walk up and down the board, take a step back to make a quick turn or lean on one side to make a long easy left or right. Whatever I wished, the board just obeyed my commands. Comparing this board with my other boards, it rides like a sport car, while the others feels like a lumbering truck. I love this baby.

The surf today is not on the big side. It has been like this for the whole weekend. We are getting 2, 3 feet waves and there was long lull in between. That's alright though because I need to catch my breath. After I surfed for about half an hour, there were a couple people came out doing tadem surfing. I think they are husband and wife team, paddling out on some huge standup board. The gal is lying down up front of the board and the guy was in the back of her, both of them paddling away. It looks funny because it looked kind of like ... well let's not go there... Actually it is always fun watching people doing tadem surfing. When they catch a wave, the guy usually pick the girl up, lift her over his head. She spread her amrs and legs out like a ballet dancer. The guy turns her around, sometine he turn a 360 on the board himself while holding her up. All that while balancing on a surf board, manuvering, dodging other surfers, very amazing feast. Oh, there was one big dude paddled out on a huge 12'1" long board. The reason I know that because one guy asked him how big the board was when he was passing by. I guess he will catch any wave of the day with that big yatch. Too big for me.

I caught some pretty good waves and got wiped out bad a couple time on some of the bigger ones of the day. I think I was getting tired and sloppy. Anyhow, I caught a nice one way out. I saw it was coming so I turned my board around, leaned forwarded a bit on it and started paddling. I could hear the wave roaring in the back, and it came rushing in, picking me up. I leaned forward a bit more, paddled hard and zoom!, took off in a blink of an eye. I first rode it straight in, then leaned left, bouncing up and down on the wave, almost lost my balance. So I pulled back, leaned right, trying to catch the crest of the wave. Got it, bent down on my knee, tucked in for speed and shredding down the face of the wave. I turned more to the right, going forty five degree for the long ride. So I rode it all the way in, totally stoked. It was a good day at the beach. And a bad day at home. Oh my tired old man body...

(Can't wait til next weekend to do this all over again!)

Saturday, May 10, 2008

My New Toy

Did I say I am getting a new surfboard? Yeah, just went pick it up this morning. Took an hour scenic drive to San Diego. I drove on 5 South and see waves breaking on the ocean, near by Camp Pendleton. Just told myself, it is going to be a fine day to surf. I bought the board from the UCSD's Muir Surf and Skate shop and the guy who runs the shop there is really nice. He forgot he ordered a Walden for me and was suprise to see the brand name on it. It supposed to be a really good brand. He even helped me put the fins on and waxed it for me. He suggested that I try it out across the street on Black Beach, 7 minutes walk away . He offered to loan me a wetsuit and a leash too but I got all that with me in my little Prius so I gracefully declined it. Yep, I put on my wetsuit, carry my spankingly new board across the street to the beach, thinking it is a piece of cake 7 minutes walk like I was told. Dude, it was more like half a mile down the long cliff while carryin my 9'6" longboard. Well I finally made it. It is an awesome, gorgeous looking beach with tall cliff on one side and ocean on the other. Beautiful, multi-million dollars mansions lined the cliff side. The perfect blue sky is dotted with colorful hanggliders and parasailers, gliding around like flocks of sea gulls on the windy Torrey Pine cliff. What an beautiful sight. I wished I had a camera with me. Next time, but you can enjoy this picture I downloaded from the web.

Black Beach



I hit the water with my new stick and you know what, I caught the first wave right away. And a second and third. Wow, what an awesome board. It really makes me look good since I think I am just so so in my ability. The guys on the short boards near by kept jealously looking at me since I kept catching waves and ride. So good for the start because after that, the waves begun to get choppy and sectioned. It was hard to catch a good one. I ventured out trying to catch some big ones but they drizzled out before coming any closer. I made a mistake went back in too close to the beach and get pounded by the beach breaks. It sucks to get pounded and tumbled around. I stick around for a while, trying to catch another ride but the condition did not improve. I called it a day and paddled in. Got a so so wave to glide me back in to the sandy beach. Now I have to carry my longboard up the steep slope half mile to my car. Just said it took a while and my legs was burning. I drove back to OC uneventfully.

That's was it. Just a small day but got to check out my new stick. Got a few pix here to share with you. The board is concaved in in the underside upfront to help with your nose riding. The rail in the back is tucked in, V shaped to allow you to make quick turns. You can kind of see the contour of the rail on the underside pictures. Did I mention it was very easy to paddle too? Great board. Love it.



My brand new Walden Magic stick, waxed







Magic Model Logo




The business side





The tail end