I know I have not been blogging for a while, been so busy, buddy. Well, I guess today I will write some thing. The weather has been extremely nice and comfort. The June gloom is finally over. Daily temperature is about 70s around the beach with clear blue sky, perfect weather for surfing, so that what I did today. Got to Sano around 7 pm. Lot of cars, lot of people for a Tuesday weekday. Don't people work at all? May be I am the only one that have to do so. Anyway, it's just so beautiful out here. yehh.
Out there on the waves you see black dots cover from one end of the beach to the other. Yes, that are surfers, waiting patiently for their perfect waves. On the sand, family and friends circled around the fire rings, kids playing. Lots of tents popped up along the beach, giving it many shades of blues, green, yellow, purples. So many RVs parked paralleled to the road, cars parked double, so crowded for a Tuesday afternoon... Yes, it looks just like a weekend Saturday. Amazing how summer transformed San Onofre beach. I love this place. Hope they don't build that stupid toll road. I need to write to my local congressman, Arnold and Bush...
I put on my spring suit, grabbed my board and jumped into the water. Wow, the water was so warmed, it was just like taking a bath. 70 degree, nice and toasty. The waves are also quite good today. 3, 4 feet tall, kinda soft but that's alright with me, I won't get beat up so bad. I paddled out, it was low tide so had to walked over a bunch of slippery pebbles. Almost lost my balance. Well, I got out to the line up and just wait for my waves. Had to wait for a few minutes but today we had quite a few fun sets, when they came. And when they came, they came in a set of 3 or 4, rolling in in A frame waves, then spread across the whole front, right in front of Old Mans. The waves pitched up, built up to 4 or 5 feet A frames. The top starts to tip over, the white cap bearded its top. Lovely. I caught a few of these. Some I was way inside so I just caught the white water, but they all was fun. One of the best wave I caught was some where between the line up and the beach. I paddled, saw the wave picked my board up, it started to slide down the slope. I pushed up, wait a bit and popped up on my feet. Let my board slid to the bottom of the wave then I leaned to the right, sticking my butt out to steer to the right. Glide for a while, step on the nose to nose ride for a bit, then I steered left, walked up and down the board a bit, pumped it a few times to generate speed. Oh, that was one of the longest ride I had at Sano. Fantastic. So much fun. I was going to go back in but after I ride that wave, I was so stoked that I ended up paddled back out again to catch a few more.
For a while the water was so calm and flat like a lake. I was just sitting on my board, watching the sun going down on the right. The sunset at Sano is not as beautiful at at Sunset beach, Hawaii but it sure still very romantic and inspiring. The sun going down over the horizon, a few specks of orange cloud partly covered the glowing orange disk. The water reflection, the small waves rolling in rymth, the tall cliff hanging in the background. Sometime a flock of sea birds flew by or a family of dolphins jumped over the water, 40, 50 yards from where you are. You feel so good, feel so much part of nature.
At that point, everything crazy going on during the day is gone, just you and nature, just you and the elements. It makes it worth the drive, worth the paddling. No wonder people is crazy about surfing. It's no longer a sport, it no longer an exercise. It is a lifestyle to a lot of people here (just check out how many RVs here today). Some people swears it borders religions. Whatever it is, I know I was hooked, I was stoked and I enjoy every minute of it.
Rolling, peeling beautiful waves of summer 08.
Sano, August 5th, 2008.
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