Surfing on Christmas Eve

Chrismas eve. I got to the beach around 1:30 pm. Passed by the entrance and said Merry Christmas to the park employee, a nice older gentleman sitting by himself inside the boot. He waved back at me with a smile. I drove down the beach and there was almost nobody. Yeah, they all must be at the mall doing the last minutes Christmas shopping. There was just one lonely guy out there at the point,trying to catch a sloppy one footer. Surf is tiny today, if any. But I am here, so I went ahead and put on my wetsuit. The poor guy came in. We chat a bit. He said it was better an hour earlier but he think the swell is dying down now. I agreed with him. It looks so flat out there. Well, swimming is a good exercise too. He told me I have the whole Sano for myself. Wahoo! except for there is no waves! Walking down the beach, I dipped my foot in the water. Man,it is icy cold, may be in the fifty-ish degree. The sky is overcast with only a tiny speck of sunlight. The air is as cold as the water. Perfect! Time to get in.

It is sure small today. I struggled to catch a few tiny waves. Got one, stood up, rode a bit but not much going on at the Point so I paddled out to Old Mans. Waves are breaking over there, not by much. I caught a few one, two footers. It's kinda of broken, crumpy, bumby waves that most people would call junks. Well, one of the surfer I met later today told me: "You ride the waves you got, not the one you wished you had" so got to make the best of what out there. Strange thing, even there is not much swell today but where I lined up, there is a strong rip curl kept pulling me out to the ocean. It's kind of freaky. After a few minutes sitting on your surfboard, you ended up farther from the shore. I had to keep paddle back closer to the shore, thinking, if this stupid thing drifted me out to the ocean, there is nobody around I can ask for help.

I got a few more waves, got one last decent one and called it the day. I was getting a bit cold too. Walking back to my car, taking off my wet suit and at the same time I heard the Surfliner train horn going in the background. So I was thinking, the last train of the day, taking people back to their family, to a happy Christmas dinners with love ones. Merry Christmas to everyone. Merry Christmas San Onofre.

The moment

Ever wonder why surfers are so mellow? Yes, my friends, when you are out there, on the waves, you forgot all about this f. bullshit. Yes, it's all gone. Just you and the waves, the very moment that you stood up, the moment that you shred. That's it. That's all that's matter. All your body is living the moment. Yes.....

Lord of the Rings

I just watch Lord of the Ring again. Every time I watched it, I can see the relationship between the Ring and the greed that fell on the human race. Yes, the ring is the greediness, the ego, the power, the want-it-all human nature. Yes, one ring conquers it all. We has human beings struggle to free ourselves from greediness but we are not always successful. Why, is it because you never when your next meal will come from? Is it because you never know when on rainy days, do you have enough to survive? Why we always want more? More money, more recognition, bigger house, bigger cars. What is it? What is it that make us human to be greedy, has to be so egolistic? If we can conquer fusion energy, then energy will be limitless then we can produce as much food as we want, all the big houses that we want to own, all the nice cars that we drive. All problems will be solved, right? Yeah, until someone control your source of fusion energy, and you will have to pay for it. And it's all start all over again.....

My favorite surfers

Kelly Slater, Rob Machado