Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Happy Father Day

One of my best father day ever was last Sunday 6/15/08. I got to spend my father day surfing with my daughters and my friend Tom. My older daughter took a couple pictures and they came out very good. This one we are about to go into the water. With the sun in the back, the pictures have an interesting sihollette look.



We are ready...



While we sufing, my friend Tom was jamming with his little guitar. Go Rock Star.


Guitar Hero


And here is the video of my daughter catching a wave:





The waves on that day were very big and strong. There were even some overheads. It took a while for Tom and I to paddle out to the line up. I had to turtle dive threes time to duck the incoming waves or else get swept away. I got one good wave, rode it in and it took 15 minutes to get back out. I got another one, the wave was pushing so strong that I got stuck in the soup for a while. Once I stood up, there was a guy paddling just in front of me. I almost ran over him except that I veered to the right just in time to avoid the collision. In the same time he flipped his board over and went under the water. I did almost lost it right there but did not fall. I rode this wave all the way in and called it a day. Just too lazy to go battle the big waves again. My daughter captured all of it in the video below.






Monday, June 16, 2008

Happy Birthday

Happy Birthday. Yes, a few days ago was my birthday and I took a day off from work to celebrate when I came to this world. I told my wife and kids that on my birthday, all I want is to spend the day at the beach. They were ok with that. My wife had to work and my kids were in school so I am here at San Onofre all by myself. You know what, it was great.

I started the day out by stopping at the local Starbuck and load myself up with two big cups of aromatic coffee. They smelled so good.



I went get my breakfast and then headed to the beach. I got to the beach around 8:30 am and it was still cloudy. Only a handful of people were surfing at the time, like this guy out there.



One woman was sitting on her beach chair, wrapped in a blanket, reading her book. I said hi and told her the sun will come out and it will get better. She said she will hold me to it. Ok, Mr. Sun, hear that?

I got a nice little blue tent to give me some shade and a place to rest later on. I pitched it up near by a bush and stashed my gears in it. Oh, I even brought out the thurster that I bought 2 years ago and could not ride it. Will see if I can do it this time.



Another view of my habitat...



But the best view is right here, inside the tent, looking out. Beach front property, million dollars view.



Want to see my front yard's landscaping?



And this is my neighbor house with its own fire ring. People do bring wood, stuff here to light up a fire at night.



I was now settled in so I took a walk around and talked to other surfers. A bunch of old timers were gathering around a nice classic surfboard with lot of autographs on it. They told me the board was brand new, never touched the water. It was hung in a restaurant for a long time. Many well known surfers came and signed it. Now the owner wanted to replace the restaurant's decorations so the board has to go. One guys in the group got it and today he was going to baptize it. Nice board with a history.

By the way, the fog burned off and Mr. Sun came out to play. It was gorgeous blue sky with no cloud. The air temperature was just around 75 degrees, just perfect. So I went around and snapped a few pictures.



The lifeguard tower. There was a lifeguard truck parked next to it so they actually staffed it during the weekday. I guess because it is summer time here in California.



The waves were kind of small, only around 1 or 2 feet tall, kind of weak and sectional. Once a while you get a good set but many times it just hurry up, paddled out and wait. This guys got one:



And this guy was shredding:



I went out, caught a few but the waves were just weak, barely able to ride. After a while, I got hungry so went back in to eat my lunch. My yummy little lunch was no filet mignon, nothing fancy. Just a breakfast sandwich from McDonald and a couple bananas. Simple and that's how I like it.



I took a short nap after lunch, and after that just kicked back, relax, watched the waves. I went back out a couple times, got a few more waves. I got to try my short thurster and finally stood up on it a few times so I was stoked. Yehhh...

Btw, I saw this smiling Asian guy just standing around so I took a picture of him. Funny looking guy... He said he was happy because that was his birthday!



Yes, that's how my birthday go. Nice, relax, easy and quiet. I wished the waves were a bit bigger but that's alright, I had fun. It was great having the day just by yourself, doing something that you enjoy. You should try this on your birthday and I am sure you will like it too. I love it.