Too much fun...

Do you feel like sometimes you just had too much fun and now you are paying for it. That's how I feel right now. I went surfing for 3 days in a row and my poor body is aching all over. I walked around like an old man, slumping my shoulders, every muscles is sored and can barely keep my eyes open. I guess I am paying for all the fun I had in the last 3 days. You see, I went surfing on Friday afternoon. And I went again yesterday and this morning, I went one more time. Crazy me, but I could not help it. I woke up this morning, my body was already tired. The sky is totally overcast. The air is cold, and it was misting a bit on my windshield. But I still picked up my wetsuit, my new board and head straight to San' O. There is an urge to hit the water, to catch the waves, to splash that cold water over my face, and TO CATCH THAT PERFECT WAVE. How can you describe it? Only a surfer knows the feeling.

It was a bit cold at first but after 5 minutes paddling, I could feel it no more. I guess I either got used to it or my hands just went numb :-) The first wave came when I hit the line up and I took off immediately. I am going to call my Walden stick the "first wave" board because you can catch and ride the first wave everytime. This puppy is so fast and so responsive, even though it is 9'6" long. I can walk up and down the board, take a step back to make a quick turn or lean on one side to make a long easy left or right. Whatever I wished, the board just obeyed my commands. Comparing this board with my other boards, it rides like a sport car, while the others feels like a lumbering truck. I love this baby.

The surf today is not on the big side. It has been like this for the whole weekend. We are getting 2, 3 feet waves and there was long lull in between. That's alright though because I need to catch my breath. After I surfed for about half an hour, there were a couple people came out doing tadem surfing. I think they are husband and wife team, paddling out on some huge standup board. The gal is lying down up front of the board and the guy was in the back of her, both of them paddling away. It looks funny because it looked kind of like ... well let's not go there... Actually it is always fun watching people doing tadem surfing. When they catch a wave, the guy usually pick the girl up, lift her over his head. She spread her amrs and legs out like a ballet dancer. The guy turns her around, sometine he turn a 360 on the board himself while holding her up. All that while balancing on a surf board, manuvering, dodging other surfers, very amazing feast. Oh, there was one big dude paddled out on a huge 12'1" long board. The reason I know that because one guy asked him how big the board was when he was passing by. I guess he will catch any wave of the day with that big yatch. Too big for me.

I caught some pretty good waves and got wiped out bad a couple time on some of the bigger ones of the day. I think I was getting tired and sloppy. Anyhow, I caught a nice one way out. I saw it was coming so I turned my board around, leaned forwarded a bit on it and started paddling. I could hear the wave roaring in the back, and it came rushing in, picking me up. I leaned forward a bit more, paddled hard and zoom!, took off in a blink of an eye. I first rode it straight in, then leaned left, bouncing up and down on the wave, almost lost my balance. So I pulled back, leaned right, trying to catch the crest of the wave. Got it, bent down on my knee, tucked in for speed and shredding down the face of the wave. I turned more to the right, going forty five degree for the long ride. So I rode it all the way in, totally stoked. It was a good day at the beach. And a bad day at home. Oh my tired old man body...

(Can't wait til next weekend to do this all over again!)